Our Adventures in South Florida, May, 2000

Ken & JJ's Excellent (?) Adventure

The plan was simple. Leave Thursday morning for Florida, see my father's new house, run off for a day in Key West, and fly home Wednesday. But of course there was a story...

Thursday

An auspicious beginning. We got up before dawn for our morning flight on Delta out of Washington to West Palm Beach, via Atlanta. A paucity of traffic got us to National with plenty of time to spare. Our flight was on time and everything. We boarded, pulled away from the gate ... and sat at the base of the runway for nearly an hour. An unexpected storm cell southwest of Washington (the weather at the airport was just fine) kept all air traffic going that way grounded. Our comfortable hour layover had vanished, and of course our connecting flight was in a different terminal from the one at which we landed. I wasn't so concerned about missing our flight -- Delta's got a ton of Atlanta-WPB legs -- but I feared we wouldn't be able to touch base with my dad, who was to meet us at the airport.

Anyhow, we disembarked the Washington plane at a couple minutes before the scheduled Palm Beach departure, and in spite of assurances that the next flight was being held for us, the three of us (our rowmate, coincidentally, was also connecting to West Palm) rushed across Hartsfield Airport. We made it to the plane and, as we were amazed to discover an hour and a half later after landing on schedule, so had our luggage. All's well that ends well.

Friday

Friday found JJ and me running down to the Ft. Lauderdale area to visit my grandmother. This gave me the opportunity to get familiar with the vehicle we'd be taking to the Keys, namely a little Toyota convertible. This car was 9 years old, but didn't have too many miles on it, and was fresh out of the shop for air conditioner repairs. Good thing too, South Florida was in the midst of a hot and muggy period, even by local standards. The a/c didn't seem to be draining properly; it was making the passenger side of the floor wet. How wet, I did not yet realize.

Saturday

A nice day in which not much happened relevant to our tale. One item, though; on a previous visit to Florida, one day while JJ was working at one of the local offices or conferences, my father took me down to Miami Beach and we visited the Holocaust Memorial. JJ wanted to see it on this trip, and Monday on the way out to Key West seemed the best opportunity, especially since it was Memorial Day, so traffic should be light.

Not being very familiar with Miami, and only having been to the Memorial once, I asked my father for directions. He mentioned the MacArthur Causeway, which rang a bell, but then sent my head spinning with mention of a right on Alton and a turn on Lincoln ... I asked if he had a map available. No such luck, but just follow the signs to the Convention Center.

Sunday

JJ and I spent the afternoon in Boca Raton, primarily at the International Museum of Cartoon Art. While waiting for the museum to open, we ducked into the bookstore next door. I went straight to the travel section, and burrowed into a couple Dade County street maps. Left on Alton, go about a dozen blocks, right on Lincoln, left on Meridian -- I could handle that. More importantly, my right brain now had an image of the relevant map section.
Note to readers following my itinerary: That doesn't quite work properly. Lincoln turns into a pedestrian mall. Go right a block later at 17th. Nonetheless, as you will see, these directions were sufficient for me to find my way there.

I later mentioned to my father that I'd consulted a map and wouldn't have any problem getting to the memorial. He was still convinced it was a right on Alton. I told him that from the looks of the map, turning right there would drop us into whatever strait that is at the bottom of Miami Beach.

Two more items of interest: My dad gave us his cellular phone for the trip, and the Boca trip had left JJ's feet wet from the air conditioner. Don't worry -- all these subplots will somehow tie together!

Monday

Early departure, breakfast on the road, and on to the Holocaust Memorial (for those of you scoring at home, it was a left onto Alton). After finishing there, we decided to ride with the top down. My dad would be so proud of us driving the convertible the way Nature intended. We did remember to goop up heavily on the sunscreen.

For those of you who have never traveled to the Keys, let me describe the ride down from Miami. Just a few miles south of the MacArthur Causway junction in the downtown area, Interstate 95 comes to a sudden end, dropping you onto US 1. The next 27 miles go through rather unattractive portions of South Miami and the south suburbs, culminating in Homestead; you're basically plowing through Hurricane Andrew's albeit rebuilt ground zero. Like much of US 1 in South Florida, it does not pass through the best of neighborhoods.

Around Homestead, Florida's Turnpike comes to an end, like 95, dumping its southbounders onto Route 1. Then, within a few hundred yards, like magic, the strip malls, fast food and pawn shops come to a sudden end, and drivers are thrown into the Southeastern Everglades. Twenty miles of mostly two-lane road, with hardly a turnoff, until the road crosses a small drawbridge, and without fanfare, you're in the Keys. Soon you see a semblance of civilization, the town of Key Largo.

Key Largo's probably the biggest thing until you get out to Key West, which isn't saying a whole lot. To a driver traversing the Keys on US 1, the only visible industries are fishing and tourism. Quite a lot of the latter, with restaurants, lodging and activity sites in ample quantity. The houses are mostly modest, pleasant, and often with appropriately decorative mailboxes.

Between the towns are empty, vegetated areas, sandy soil, parkland, and occasional turn-offs for fishing and/or swimming. That's basically it. After about 100 miles of that, you get to Key West. And on the far side of that small island are all the famed locations and activities.

Anyhow, we were having a nice ride, had passed over the bridge blown up in True Lies, and gotten to Milepost 35 or so when it started to rain hard. Back up went the top of the car, and that's how we arrived at our hotel, somewhat after 3 PM.

We did some of the traditional things, visiting The Southernmost Point in the Lower 48, swimming at one of the local beaches (and then seeing a potential contamination alert there), having a delicious Cuban dinner, and watching the sun set into the Gulf (almost -- clouds and an island got into the way). We were having fun.

Tuesday

In the morning we headed out to the Ernest Hemingway House, both to see the house and its famed 6-toed cats. The tour was pricey (think A Farewell to Arms and Legs), but learning about this interesting author, touring the beautiful grounds, and seeing those adorable cats left us so without regrets that we headed over to Ernest's old hangout for lunch. JJ had the coconut shrimp, and I had a delicious fried fish sandwich and their Samuel Adamsesque microbrew. Sated with the Key West experience, we headed for home.

As we blazed across the Keys, the air conditioner was making big puddles on the right side of the car. Around Mile 60, a big popping sound came from the right front speaker. This was especially disturbing, since we had the sound system completely turned off. There were some more pops. Thinking that the a/c drip might be causing some short-circuiting, we killed the air conditioner. Nonetheless, the haunted Rice Crispies on Steroids Symphony continued. We pulled off for gas. Maybe some off-time would help.

Nope.

We drove a bit more, got worried, and pulled off again. The noises were continuing with the car shut off. I cell-phoned my dad. Denial probably best describes his response. That and an unwillingness to make the long trek to get us. Could we go any further? No idea. Neither of us are too swift when it comes to auto mechanics. Ok, we'd try to get a bit further.

It got worse. We were getting more spooked. We started seeking a garage, but (reread that description of this stretch of road) every gas station had no garage, just a mini-mart for the turistas. We came up blank passing through the towns: Islamorada, Tavernier, Key Largo ... no-man's-land was fast approaching!

Finally, JJ spotted a Firestone on the left, and was confident that they could give it a look. I weheeled over to the left lane, U-turned, and pulled in. They had competent mechanics, but we'd brought in a challenge.

Their first idea was to drain all the leakage. Fine, except none of the liquid was getting under the hood; it was all in the passenger compartment. They unplugged the right-front speaker, which did nothing for the noise from the other speakers. The disconnected the radio fuse, and the popping continued. They took out all the fuses, and it wouldn't stop. The only thing that caused the popping to halt was to disconnect the battery, and we couldn't get too far that way. And when the battery was reconnected, it all started again. The radio wiring ran under the floor, and had most likely gotten wet, but they'd have to tear out the floor to discover the extent of the problem, something they didn't want to do on an unfamiliar make of car. We asked the team, is the car safe to drive? They waffled, and one finally said he wouldn't want to.

Nor did we. We decided to call AAA (hooray for our 100-mile free towing plan; that would at least get us close) and grab a rent-a-car. I phoned my father again, and filled him in. He finally resigned himself to the situation, and in the next breath asked: "So, did you go to the Memorial?" After an affirmative response, he followed it up with, "Was it a left or a right?"

We all have our priorities.

The rest is sort of anticlimactic. We got the rental, the wrecker came ahead of the promised time, and we headed toward the Boca mechanic my father wanted the car brought to. The only remaining adventure was when we hit a severe shower west of Miami and it took me a few moments to figure out how to activate the Saturn's wipers.

Wednesday

Our bad luck seemed to be behind us. The flight back to Washington was uneventful. We got our baggage, stepped out, and immediately a shuttle to the satellite lot appeared. We eagerly entered.

As the bus approached the lot, it was right behind another shuttle bus. The first one drove up to the bus entrance, signaled the gate to go up, and drove on in. We followed. The gate started down. It clanged against the side of the bus, scraped along it, then fell to the ground. Amazing!

Once we got settled in at home, I was on the horn to my father. The mechanics found nothing wrong in the car other than the radio! Never mind that something caused it to go kablooie. JJ's convinced that they're just taking a CYA position (did they do the initial a/c fix?) Anyhow, JJ later spoke to her father, who knows a few things mechanical. He said that had we driven on, three things could have happened, and there was no way of telling: The radio could have continued to short out with no other problems; the car could have caught fire; the short could have at some point shorted out every system in the car, leaving it suddenly dead. Heck, we're glad we chose as we did.